Before and After the Pogrom
After we arrived in Bad Konigshofen and checked into the charming
but unpretentious Hotel Ebner, Audrey, Amanda, and I walked the three blocks to
the town’s central market square. Amanda, who had actually visited the town
12 years before, served as our guide. “I think Grandma’s family’s apartment was
on that side of the square,” she said—pointing toward a corner with a
restaurant on one side and a bakery on the other— “and the family’s business
was down the block over there.”
Then she pointed us in another direction and said, “I think
the synagogue used to be down that way.” We followed her lead and walked three
blocks to where we spotted a historic signpost. The marker showed an image of a
two-story building with an inscription that we could sort-of translate. It
roughly said, “Near here. . .the Jewish synagogue and culture center of Bad
Konigshofen im Grabfeld was destroyed on the inside during a pogrom on the
morning of November 10, 1938.” Near the marker there is just a blank asphalt
rectangle in front of a modern garage. That rectangle is even more descriptive than the marker. It says, “There
used to be a Jewish community in this quaint, historic southern German town,
but not anymore.”
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Above is the signpost describing the synagogue's destruction;
below is the empty paved rectangle where it once stood. |
Audrey’s mother and grandparents, great-grandparents, and
other relatives had been part of that community from the 1880s until soon after
that 1938 pogrom. But none of her relatives lived there anymore, though several
were buried, unpeacefully (as I will explain), in the local Jewish cemetery.
There were never very many members of Bad Konigshofen’s Jewish
community—perhaps 125-150 at most in a town with a population of between 2,000
and 3,000—but today there are none.
Over the next two days, we would learn more about that
Jewish community from our two special guides, Elisabeth Bรถhrer and Rainer
Seelmann, and gain a better understanding of Audrey’s family’s place in the
town. Everywhere we walked with Elisabeth and Rainer, we found echoes of
Audrey’s mother and her family. The apartment and business that I wrote about
in my last blogpost. The old synagogue where Audrey’s mother had been taught
lessons by a teacher/cantor whom she often spoke about with great reverence,
even years later when she was living in upper Manhattan and he in the Bronx.
The newer synagogue (the one that was partially destroyed on Kristallnacht)
that her grandfather and granduncle had been forced to desecrate soon after the
pogrom. Her mother’s kindergarten. The building that had housed her
granduncle’s shoe store. The cemetery where members of two older generations
were buried.
While growing up in New York, Audrey had heard a little bit
about this town from her mother and grandmother, but not much. Were the
memories too difficult, or had they just decided to move on? But we were here
now, and we decided to explore and learn.
On our second morning in Bad Konigshofen, we returned to the
no-longer-synagogue location where we met our guides. Rainer had stories to
tell and a binder filled with copies of old photos. He turned to a page in the
binder with photos of the synagogue before and after Kristallnacht.
Particularly sad were photos of the synagogue’s ark (Torah cabinet) in its
pre-pogrom majesty and afterwards. Rainer explained: The synagogue had not been
completely destroyed by fires set inside the building during Kristallnacht. Later
that night or the next morning, elders of the Jewish community, including
Audrey’s relatives, had been forced to wield saws and hammers to dismantle the shul’s
pews and ark to be used for firewood. For whose fires? We weren’t told. The
shell of the building was left as a gruesome reminder for several more years
before the lot was cleared in 1951.
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Bad Konigshofen's synagogue in the 1920s. |
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The desecrated ark on November 10, 1938 |
The synagogue was not the only “victim” on that November
night. Gravestones in the Jewish cemetery located perhaps a mile away were
toppled and smashed. Some would later be used as paving stones; others were
smashed into gravel. Eight Jewish men were arrested and transported to the Dachau
concentration camp, where they were held for a few weeks.
Kristallnacht marked a life-changing event for most of Bad Konigshofen’s
Jews.
Nearly 50 emigrated soon
afterwards, including Audrey’s grandparents and uncle, who would join her
mother in London and then head to New York. I have written about how my
mother-in-law rescued her family previously (see:
http://goodmanwrites.blogspot.com/2013/11/bravery-in-faceof-hatred-it-is-no.html).
Others left in the following year. Most of the emigres went to America and a
new life. Some fled to other parts of Germany, and their stories didn’t end
well. Soon, only six Jews remained in Bad Konigshofen—being either too old or too
infirm or too alone to escape. These last members of the community were
deported to concentration camps and killed in 1942. One of those was Audrey’s then
senile great aunt Bertha, who had been unwilling to leave earlier.
Having sufficiently depressed us, Rainer and Elisabeth led us
on a happier journey. As we walked through the town’s central area, they
pointed out the town’s earlier synagogue and school, where Jewish children such
as Audrey’s mother and uncle were taught prayers and Jewish culture. We walked
past Audrey’s mother’s kindergarten building too. It’s still there, but serves
a different function now. They pointed out family members’ former homes and business
locations. We continued walking into a different part of the town where there
were more modern homes and an elementary school and high school. Rainer and his
wife both worked in the high school, he teaching history (including a special course
on the history of the town’s Jews) and she teaching math. Both were on holiday
that week, and they invited us to lunch in their home with their four young
children. After a morning filled with depressing history, it was great to spend time with
a modern vibrant family. We really appreciated their kindness—and the great
lunch!
After lunch, Rainer’s oldest child, 11-year-old Josef,
joined us on a short walk to the last remnant of Bad Konigshofen’s Jewish
community, the cemetery. As I mentioned above, most of the gravestones in the
cemetery had been destroyed in November 1938. But the cemetery was revived in 1974.
Amazingly, stones of three of Audrey’s direct relatives—her great-grandfather,
great granduncle, and great grandaunt—survived. Those stones have been restored
and replaced upright inside the revived cemetery. The bones of Audrey's ancestors may
or may not be located anywhere near the stones that mark their graves, but the
stones declare that all three once lived and later died in Bad Konigshofen and
were among leaders of its Jewish community.
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Brett stands beside the gravestone of his great-great grandfather, Phillipp Malzer. The Malzer brothers were Kohens, descendants of priests, who were given special honors in the synagogue. |
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This monument inside the Jewish cemetery contains segments
of broken gravestones discovered near the cemetery |
While in Bad Konigshofen, we were also welcomed at the
Rathaus (town hall) by the Deputy Mayor, who told us about the town’s long
history and its growth in modern times. We were invited to sign a registry and
were interviewed by a reporter for the local newspaper. Audrey was a media
darling in yet another place in Germany. The deputy mayor told us a very
different story from the ones we learned at the empty site of the synagogue or
in the cemetery. He described a vibrant place whose citizens have in recent
months readily agreed to take in more than 200 Syrian refugees and find them homes
and jobs. Bad Konigshofen today is a welcoming place. For a brief period 80
years ago, that was not how things were.
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Brett, Amanda, Audrey, and I signing the town register
as we rediscover Audrey's mother's history. |