Cooking with Your
Heart
We had another “big brother” moment two weeks ago when
Netflix sent us a movie that we had never ordered. It seems that our queue had
run out, so the company just chose a movie for us that matched what it
considered to be our profile. That profile seems to involve indie movies with a
comic or black comic edge. Not a bad call. In this case, we were sent a movie
called “Today’s Special,” a comic look at families and restaurant dynamics. The
star is Aasif Mandvi—one of the sardonic commentators on “The Daily Show”— who,
this time, plays an Indian-American chef who has plans to go to Paris to study
French cooking but ends up running his father’s rundown Tandoori Palace in
Jackson Heights, Queens, instead.
Mandvi’s character is a chef who cooks using only his mind.
That’s why he is passed over for a promotion and why he is fleeing to Paris . When circumstances
force him to stay in Queens, he comes in contact with an unlikely mentor who
explains that true cooking requires using your mind, your heart, your stomach,
“and sometimes a place lower down.” I
will not destroy the plot any further for those who might have the movie in
their queue, other than to say that an important part of the message of the
movie is revealed when the mentor posts a sign in the restaurant window
announcing Today’s Special as “Trust me.”
I decided for a “trust me” cooking moment at a Chanukah
party we hosted for close friends and family last week. My job was to make the
latkes. I narrowed my recipe choices down to two: (1) traditional – grated
potatoes, onion, egg, matzoh meal, lots of oil; or (2) calico—traditional with
the addition of grated carrots and chopped scallions. I leaned toward choice 2,
in part because the picture of the brown latkes with streaks of orange and
green looked appealing and in part because I thought trying something different
would be—er, different.
When I mentioned my idea to my mother, she did her best Queen
Victoria
imitation and was “not amused.” “That
sounds terrible,” she proclaimed. “Why would you do that to your company?” She
would probably have felt even more justification for her negative opinion if
she knew that located on the same page in Food.com where the calico latkes
recipe was printed was one for “healthy shrimp jambalaya.”
Nevertheless, defying Jewish tradition, both in choice of
recipe and in deciding not to listen to my mother, I proceeded to go ahead with
my original plan. And it must have been a success. My potato, onion, egg,
carrot, and scallion mixture filled a very large bowl, and I made
more latkes that I figured our party could possibly eat. By meal’s end,
however, nearly all of them were gone. Now, this is not necessarily the sign of
a great latke recipe. In my experience, the number of latkes eaten by a group
of people, and Jewish people in particular, is nearly always equal to the number of pancakes that
emerge—warm, crispy, and glowing with oil—from almost any frying pan. But I did receive
an email from our friends’ daughter proclaiming that the carrot-and-scallion
latkes were excellent. Proof enough for me!
Just as in the movie Netflix chose for us, children—whether they be
Indian, Jewish, or New England WASPs—all want to plant a sign in front of their
parents that says, “Trust me.” At no time is that trust more necessary than
when you choose to doctor up a traditional holiday dish with non-traditional
ingredients. But even I don’t trust that there can really be something called
“healthy shrimp jambalaya.”